If you're coming here for the first time, and taking a taxi, make sure the driver uses his navigation, as this charming restaurant is a little off the beaten track, and you won't want to be late...
For those of you who don't know, the Chef Patron, Olivier Oddos, eventually moved to Paris where he worked at the Drouant Restaurant and the Hotel Meurice. Later, Olivier was invited to become the Sous Chef at La Tour d’Argent where he worked with Chef Bernard Guilhaudin.
In 2000, Chef Oddos joined L'Ecole Cordon Bleu in Japan. In 2003 he became the Executive Chef at the Kobe school, and in 2007 became the Executive Chef Cuisine for Japan, and Technical Director for Tokyo before setting up on his own in 2009.
We are welcomed by the friendly staff and offered a glass of of Louis Roederer NV champagne at a counter bar area close to the entrance While our party gathers, we are served home-made meaty pork rillette - which is a little over-chilled, and slightly cold to the taste, but quite delicious nevertheless. (6.5/10)
With the rillette we are offered some rather good home-bread; it is cigar-shaped, with a firm crust and a soft interior. (7/10)
Soon we are ushered to our table in the light, simply decorated and modern dining room. There is no linen tablecloth, which is a pity, but the table is very pleasantly presented and more than comfortable enough for the four of us.
The menu is brief and well constructed, with an a la carte section and several tasting menus but on several friend's advice we opt for the dinner tasting menu - the most extensive meal on offer - priced at ¥8,500 per person (subject to 10% service charge).
Amuse Bouche
A rich, deep tomato soup is served in a small glass, topped with a mousse of halloumi cheese. On the side is a ceramic spoon with what appears to be a small albino egg yolk topped with basil and olive oil. The egg yolk is, of course, a "soup" of yet more halloumi cheese cleverly transfigured using the techniques of molecular gastronomy. Good taste combinations; I could have eaten several helpings of this dish. Delicious. (7/10)
Foie Gras de Canard Poele, Vinaigre de Mange et Mangue Caramelisee
I need to get out more, because this is the first time I've ever eaten caramelised mango with foie gras; I sincerely hope it will not be the last. There's just the right amount of tartness in the caramelised fruit and vinegar to cut through the richness of the duck liver. Even the delicate arrangement of leaves sitting quietly in the corner of the plate taste extraordinary. It's all washed down nicely with a glass or two of Domaine Cauhape Jurancon 2008. Bliss. (8/10)
Veloute d'Asperges Vertes, Emulsion de Poitrine Fumee
I love the asparagus season, and this soup is quite delicious, not overly creamy so you can really taste the asparagus; topped with a light mousse with the flavour of smoked pork belly. It's finished with a dusting of minute salty, crunchy bacon bits. Very well done indeed. (7.5/10)
Dos de Bar Cuit a la Vapeur, Risotto a l'Ence de Seiche, Emulsion de Roquette et Gingembre
We are told this is the signature dish of the Chef, and from the moment it arrives at table it's clear why. Visual appeal is very important in dining, and this dish is as pretty as a picture. It is filled with vibrant colours; the kind of dish that makes you drool with anticipation. But unlike some pretty looking dishes, this one only gets better when you taste it.
A perfectly moist piece of steamed bass sits on top of a perfectly cooked squid ink risotto. The risotto is surrounded by a moat of vibrant green rocket soup flavoured with a perfect hint of ginger. The fish is topped with a sliver of dried tomato and a rocket leaf.
I have used the word perfect a lot in this description, and that is deliberate. This is one of the most delicious dishes I have eaten in a long time. Superb. (9/10)
Sorbet Pommes Vertes et "Wasabi"
A palate cleanser of apple sorbet flavoured with wasabi. An unusual and surprisingly pleasant combination of tastes. Is it just me, or is that wasabi getting fierier the further down the glass I get? This one certainly blows away the cobwebs. (6.5/10)
Filet de Boeuf de Hokkaido poele, Legumes de Moment, Polenta Cremeuse, Sauce Bordelaise
Here we have another beautifully presented dish. The meat is moist, perfectly a point (medium) and not too fatty, as is too often the case with wagyu. A small selection of flavoursome vegetables are well cooked and tasty. We also have a creamy polenta which has a wonderful texture but is a little under-seasoned for my taste.The dish is finished with an unctuous red wine sauce bordelaise. I'm not keen on the rather odd knives we are given to eat our meat; I think meat always tastes better eaten with a Laguiole knife; but then I'm a dreadful snob about things like that.(7/10)
Cheeses
We order, at extra cost, two plates of assorted cheese, which is more than enough to share between four diners. The selection includes:
The cheeses are all presented in tip top condition, although they are served in a rather austere way with no gorgeous bread, compotes or other bits and pieces to augment the pleasure of the cheese. (7/10)
To bring the meal to a close we are offered a choice of desserts from the following six selections:
The desserts we chose generally well received. The fruit jelly with ginger crumble (7/10) and the macaroon with lemon sorbet (7.5/10) are both very good. Sadly two of four diners, myself included, go for the chocolate fondant; we both agreed that something here was not right. Rather than a soft and yielding cake filled with a slowly oozing chocolate centre, we both found the exterior to be rather hard-baked and the filling too runny, although the raspberry sorbet that was served with it was delicious. (5/10)
Dinner is followed by tea or coffee.
At ¥8,500 per person (excluding cheese) this menu represents very good value for money. The ingredients are high quality and cooked with imagination and flair. The dining room has a warm atmosphere, with polite and knowledgeable staff. From time to time the inscrutable Chef Olivier shimmers calmly through the dining room to ensure everything is running smoothly.
In this diner's opinion, this restaurant easily warrants one Michelin star. Improvements could be made to the wine list to better compliment to the high quality of the food. Linen tablecloths would also be a welcome improvement. All this said, I will coming here again, hopefully before Michelin find it and I can't get a table any more. And if you haven't been yet, you should.
Chez Olivier
4-1-10 Kudan Minami,
Chiyoda-ku
Tokyo 102-0074
Tel: 03-6268 9933
For those of you who don't know, the Chef Patron, Olivier Oddos, eventually moved to Paris where he worked at the Drouant Restaurant and the Hotel Meurice. Later, Olivier was invited to become the Sous Chef at La Tour d’Argent where he worked with Chef Bernard Guilhaudin.
In 2000, Chef Oddos joined L'Ecole Cordon Bleu in Japan. In 2003 he became the Executive Chef at the Kobe school, and in 2007 became the Executive Chef Cuisine for Japan, and Technical Director for Tokyo before setting up on his own in 2009.
We are welcomed by the friendly staff and offered a glass of of Louis Roederer NV champagne at a counter bar area close to the entrance While our party gathers, we are served home-made meaty pork rillette - which is a little over-chilled, and slightly cold to the taste, but quite delicious nevertheless. (6.5/10)
With the rillette we are offered some rather good home-bread; it is cigar-shaped, with a firm crust and a soft interior. (7/10)
Soon we are ushered to our table in the light, simply decorated and modern dining room. There is no linen tablecloth, which is a pity, but the table is very pleasantly presented and more than comfortable enough for the four of us.
The menu is brief and well constructed, with an a la carte section and several tasting menus but on several friend's advice we opt for the dinner tasting menu - the most extensive meal on offer - priced at ¥8,500 per person (subject to 10% service charge).
Amuse Bouche
A rich, deep tomato soup is served in a small glass, topped with a mousse of halloumi cheese. On the side is a ceramic spoon with what appears to be a small albino egg yolk topped with basil and olive oil. The egg yolk is, of course, a "soup" of yet more halloumi cheese cleverly transfigured using the techniques of molecular gastronomy. Good taste combinations; I could have eaten several helpings of this dish. Delicious. (7/10)
Foie Gras de Canard Poele, Vinaigre de Mange et Mangue Caramelisee
I need to get out more, because this is the first time I've ever eaten caramelised mango with foie gras; I sincerely hope it will not be the last. There's just the right amount of tartness in the caramelised fruit and vinegar to cut through the richness of the duck liver. Even the delicate arrangement of leaves sitting quietly in the corner of the plate taste extraordinary. It's all washed down nicely with a glass or two of Domaine Cauhape Jurancon 2008. Bliss. (8/10)
Veloute d'Asperges Vertes, Emulsion de Poitrine Fumee
I love the asparagus season, and this soup is quite delicious, not overly creamy so you can really taste the asparagus; topped with a light mousse with the flavour of smoked pork belly. It's finished with a dusting of minute salty, crunchy bacon bits. Very well done indeed. (7.5/10)
Dos de Bar Cuit a la Vapeur, Risotto a l'Ence de Seiche, Emulsion de Roquette et Gingembre
We are told this is the signature dish of the Chef, and from the moment it arrives at table it's clear why. Visual appeal is very important in dining, and this dish is as pretty as a picture. It is filled with vibrant colours; the kind of dish that makes you drool with anticipation. But unlike some pretty looking dishes, this one only gets better when you taste it.
A perfectly moist piece of steamed bass sits on top of a perfectly cooked squid ink risotto. The risotto is surrounded by a moat of vibrant green rocket soup flavoured with a perfect hint of ginger. The fish is topped with a sliver of dried tomato and a rocket leaf.
I have used the word perfect a lot in this description, and that is deliberate. This is one of the most delicious dishes I have eaten in a long time. Superb. (9/10)
Sorbet Pommes Vertes et "Wasabi"
A palate cleanser of apple sorbet flavoured with wasabi. An unusual and surprisingly pleasant combination of tastes. Is it just me, or is that wasabi getting fierier the further down the glass I get? This one certainly blows away the cobwebs. (6.5/10)
Filet de Boeuf de Hokkaido poele, Legumes de Moment, Polenta Cremeuse, Sauce Bordelaise
Here we have another beautifully presented dish. The meat is moist, perfectly a point (medium) and not too fatty, as is too often the case with wagyu. A small selection of flavoursome vegetables are well cooked and tasty. We also have a creamy polenta which has a wonderful texture but is a little under-seasoned for my taste.The dish is finished with an unctuous red wine sauce bordelaise. I'm not keen on the rather odd knives we are given to eat our meat; I think meat always tastes better eaten with a Laguiole knife; but then I'm a dreadful snob about things like that.(7/10)
Cheeses
We order, at extra cost, two plates of assorted cheese, which is more than enough to share between four diners. The selection includes:
- Brillat Savarin
- Montbriac
- Valencay
- Comte (18m)
- Lou Caussinhol
The cheeses are all presented in tip top condition, although they are served in a rather austere way with no gorgeous bread, compotes or other bits and pieces to augment the pleasure of the cheese. (7/10)
To bring the meal to a close we are offered a choice of desserts from the following six selections:
- Creme Brulee aux Epices
- Gelee de Fruits Rouges Infusee a la Citronelle, Fromage Blanc au Gingembre Crumble
- Mousee au Chocolat au Caramel Sale
- Fondant Chaud au Chocolat Guanaja "Valrhona", Glace a la Vanille de Tahiti ou Sorbet de Framboises
- Macaon a l'Huile d'Olive, Creme Citron et Olive Confite, Sorbet Citron
- Cafe Liegeois
The desserts we chose generally well received. The fruit jelly with ginger crumble (7/10) and the macaroon with lemon sorbet (7.5/10) are both very good. Sadly two of four diners, myself included, go for the chocolate fondant; we both agreed that something here was not right. Rather than a soft and yielding cake filled with a slowly oozing chocolate centre, we both found the exterior to be rather hard-baked and the filling too runny, although the raspberry sorbet that was served with it was delicious. (5/10)
Dinner is followed by tea or coffee.
At ¥8,500 per person (excluding cheese) this menu represents very good value for money. The ingredients are high quality and cooked with imagination and flair. The dining room has a warm atmosphere, with polite and knowledgeable staff. From time to time the inscrutable Chef Olivier shimmers calmly through the dining room to ensure everything is running smoothly.
In this diner's opinion, this restaurant easily warrants one Michelin star. Improvements could be made to the wine list to better compliment to the high quality of the food. Linen tablecloths would also be a welcome improvement. All this said, I will coming here again, hopefully before Michelin find it and I can't get a table any more. And if you haven't been yet, you should.
Chez Olivier
4-1-10 Kudan Minami,
Chiyoda-ku
Tokyo 102-0074
Tel: 03-6268 9933
